Archive for September 2019

Tasting the Real Bahamas

The Bahamas, so recently the source of terrible headlines after Hurricane Dorian, form a set of Caribbean islands that are not in the Caribbean. They are in the Atlantic. Yet the same smoldering mix of sugar, rum, pirates and slaves that formed Caribbean culture (and cuisine) over four centuries formed these 700 large and small…

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Sensational Italian Soups

Most American, it seems, picture Italians eating pasta 24/7 – and there are just enough stereotypical photos making the rounds to keep that vision before our eyes. We, on the other hand, always picture Italians eating soup. We have our reasons. First and foremost, virtually all Italian cooking was born of austerity rather than abundance.…

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Fried Rice Goes Tropical

In the long-ago kitchen lingo of American café, diner and lunch counter, any dish ordered “walkin’” meant packaged to be carried out. Yet when you dig a bit through food history, no dish has walked farther, longer or with more impact than Chinese fried rice. It has walked almost everywhere on earth, from southeast Asia…

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Sicilian Cannoli Cheesecake

Getting a few thousand Sicilian Americans mad at me is probably not the brightest thing I’ve ever done. Yet the fact is, I never cared much about cannoli from Italian bakeries in Little Italys all across America. Cannoli (the word is plural) were okay, but not special enough to justify the calories. It was only…

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