Food

Uniquely British

George Bernard Shaw once quipped that America and England were two countries separated by a common language. At the time, he was talking about vocabulary, grammar, attitude and, of course, accent. But as we learned recently, his much-quoted wisdom applies to food as well. That’s one of the main takeaways from the happy news that…

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Trending Flavors from Africa

A couple weeks back, strolling through the mammoth Winter Fancy Food Show in San Francisco, we realized we could see Africa from there. Well, not exactly see it, though the continent is even larger than our own. But we could definitely taste it. After the show, that seemed the main thing most “survivors” (any Fancy…

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Spanokopita! Spanokopita!

Spanokopita, the savory pie one authority praised as the ultimate Greek “soul food,” might be the first word I ever tried to understand when arriving in Greece coming up on half a century ago. Surely I heard a few other words, enough to climb off the overnight ferry from Italy, find a late dinner of…

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Reborn Bread Bowls

Only a few months back, a national bread-centric chain called Panera introduced a “hot new trend” – yet another version of soup served in a bowl of hollowed-out bread. It was a “hot new trend” because Panera, along with many food journalists, told us it was. Which is great – since soup served in a…

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A Tale of Two Kingcakes

Inspired by two years and two Epiphanies of tasting galettes des rois, first all over Paris and then at one very special patisserie in Montreal, we decided this year in northern Virginia to make our own. Two galettes came together side by side, sharing the same puff pastry and the same almond filling. The results…

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Galette des Rois

It’s has been a long, hard road for me, learning to prefer the traditional puff-pastry-almond-paste galette des rois of France over the also-traditional sweet brioche kingcakes of my native New Orleans. My journey has been helped along by spending Epiphany eating galettes (yes, definitely more than one) in Paris two years ago and then eating…

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Celebrating Citrus

The last thing I remember not doing before leaving my last daily newspaper job was going to the Rio Grande Valley to write about citrus. The first thing I remember doing after starting my own food and wine magazine was – going to the Rio Grande Valley to write about citrus. I think about this…

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Lightening Up Lasagna

Of all the richly deserved complaints that Italians from Italy lodge against Italian food in America, the one that resonates with me the most is that lasagna was never intended to be heavy. Over the years, more than a few Italian chefs have shown me the beauty of a light, fluffy pasta casserole that wouldn’t…

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Soups for the Season

In a holiday season that traditionally begins with turkey and ends with goose, it should come as no surprise that this time of year is for the birds. And that includes roasted chickens, Cornish hens and even tiny, delicate quail.  Many of those larger birds produce leftovers, of course. So it’s our job as intrepid…

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Edible Holiday Gifting

Just try doing what we did. Try gathering internet advice on making homemade food gifts this holiday season. Everybody and his Aunt Lucy has recipes – oh yes, plenty of recipes. And online these almost always take the form of a “slideshow” you have to click through, invariably with some silly number that somebody decided…

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