Posts by DM Magazine

Meatball Soup from Mexico

Of all the variations on meatball soup in this world that don’t taste the least bit Italian – from ciorba de perisoare in Romania to bola bola in the Philippines – spiced-yet-also-cooling Mexican sopa de albondigas is our alltime favorite. Make no mistake, we’ve been known to inhale anything with meatballs, but if you happen…

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The Best Use of Any Onion

People all over Europe have been filling up on what we now know as “French” onion soup for at least a couple thousand years. And for at least once in food history, nobody is the least bit mystified how the dish’s basic idea started making the rounds. Onions can be many things, but the Number…

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The Exotic Journey of Chili

One of the ways that’s guaranteed to get virtually all Texans mad at you, regardless of their ethnicity, religion or politics, is to start telling them what chili is supposed to be. In New Orleans, you don’t make friends talking about what gumbo is supposed to be either. Yet in my life as a food…

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Montreal Winter Soup

Whether it’s icy outside, or cool, or simply slightly less hot than the place that bad people are supposed to go, this is the season for making soup. And one of the most dramatic lessons I’ve learned in all these years of cooking for people is that soup is the easiest thing in the universe…

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Sicily’s Signature Orange

Starting with the weather, a thousand things might make this more or less true, but now is the time to be buying, cooking with and devouring the darkest-fleshed blood oranges you can get your happy hands on. The same substance that gives the interior flesh its exotic color delivers a bundle of health benefits while…

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That Vinegar from Modena

Modena, the city in the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, is world-famous for approximately three things – its legacy of Ferrari and Lamborghini sports cars, the late opera tenor Luciano Pavarotti, and balsamic vinegar. The vinegar turns up in my life much more often than the other two products put together. Of course, Modena being…

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Wine Tasting for Everybody

We are lucky: we don’t live in a world in which so much is made of wine science, knowledge, sophistication and connoisseurship that nobody would ever feel worthy of drinking the wonderful stuff. We do, however, live in a world in which (as from the beginnings of wine culture in ancient Greece), the more you…

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Happy Protochronia, 2020!

Not too many years ago, you might have gotten a blank stare if you asked a Greek child what he or she hoped to get from Santa for Christmas. After all, in that unique and (by me) beloved culture, gifts didn’t come from St. Nick at Christmas but from St. Basil on New Year’s. Not…

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Baking Your Own Fruitcake

I woke up this morning, raced to the lighted, decorated tree and, once again, discovered that Santa had failed to bring me a fruitcake. I love those things. And considering how many people proclaim they despise them, you’d think Santa or anybody else in my circle could spare at least one. But no. I even…

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The Feast of Seven Fishes

Around the world, wherever Christmas is celebrated, Christmas Eve is a time of waiting. And because, other than kids waiting for Santa, that often means adults committed to fasting and abstinence, what a lot of those adults are waiting for is food. Southern Italy, Sicily and virtually all the Little Italys in this republic named…

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