Posts by DM Magazine

Green, Green Peas of Home

Thanks to global agriculture, and especially to a giant who happens to be green, we’ve forgotten that peas have always been a springtime delicacy. In cuisines that have retained a more seasonal approach than our own, fresh peas as green as that laughing giant on the can are a symbol of the end of another…

Read More

Brave Spirits’ ‘As You Like It’

When William Shakespeare wrote a “romantic comedy,” as he understood the notion in his day, everybody onstage, of every class and station in society, ended up falling in love with somebody. Indeed, in plays like As You Like It, the dish would run away with the spoon had Mother Goose not beaten the Bard to…

Read More

Sicilian Easter Lamb Pies

Even in its Easter celebrations, Sicily is culturally and culinarily a world apart from every other square inch of Italy. The fact that so many impoverished Sicilians left the island for America gives us a false impression that the foods we grew up eating in “red sauce Italian” restaurants, from spaghetti and meatballs to pizza,…

Read More

How Pad Became Pad Thai

In last week’s column, we looked at the long history of fried rice, born of a Chinese culture that had limited proteins and vegetables but a seemingly endless supply of rice. The recipe – little more than a flexible idea, really – spread throughout Asia by way of conquest, trade or any combination thereof. This…

Read More

NYCB’s Legacy Night

By the time New York City Ballet made its first, now-annual pilgrimage to the nation’s capital in 1974, the company had become a kind of America’s Team on the shoulders of the 20th century’s two most significant American choreographers – George Balanchine and Jerome Robbins. So it seems only fair that last night’s opening at…

Read More

Fried Rice Festival

It is often said, as with most things that are mostly true, that traditional Chinese cooking stretched whatever meats, seafoods or vegetables were available with lots and lots of rice. In that case, fried rice must by the absolute poster child for traditional Chinese cooking. And it’s actually been that way for a long time.…

Read More

Stuffing the Wild Potato

There isn’t a lot of written history on the stuffed baked potato, so I’m pretty sure I invented it. And as usual with me, economy was the true mother of invention. There I was, many years ago when Wendy’s and I were young, pondering that the fast-foot burger chain made famous by Dave Thomas offered…

Read More

Faust’s Old-Time Religion

It’s not for lack of hummable melodies that Charles Gounod’s opera Faust – based on Goethe’s two volumes, which themselves are based on the “Faust legend” that began circulating throughout Europe during the 16th century – is performed notably less than it used to be. We think it’s because the world view required to believe…

Read More

Nights in Red Velvet

Red velvet cake is definitely a Southern creation, arguably even a Texas creation – unless you are one of those New Yorkers who associate it with the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, or a Canadian who thinks the recipe comes from Eaton’s department store. Seriously now. Doesn’t red velvet cake appear in every Southern cookbook, not to mention…

Read More

WNO’S ‘Eugene Onegin’

Russian composer Pyotr Ilych Tchaikovsky and Russian poet Alexander Pushkin seem an unlikely pair of collaborators, not least because Pushkin died (in a duel with pistols, no less) three years before Tchaikovsky was born. Yet collaborate they have, and collaborate they do, in Washington National Opera’s first-rate production of Eugene Onegin that opened last night…

Read More