Posts by DM Magazine

WNO: A Delilah Is Born

Decades before the old Hollywood studio system discovered that Biblical epics could make a lot of money, the opera composers of 19th century Europe discovered the same thing. Toss together a few robes with swords, sandals and gold headbands, and you had the makings of a barn burner. And there were simply more stories in…

Read More

Meatless for the Moment

I was reading a newspaper article from New York the other day, about the thing I probably like least. There’s a hot hip new restaurant serving cheese made from cashews, steak tartare made from split peas colored with beet juice, and even foie gras made from ground sesame seeds. This latest NYC hotspot is devoted…

Read More

Meatball Soup from Mexico

Of all the variations on meatball soup in this world that don’t taste the least bit Italian – from ciorba de perisoare in Romania to bola bola in the Philippines – spiced-yet-also-cooling Mexican sopa de albondigas is our alltime favorite. Make no mistake, we’ve been known to inhale anything with meatballs, but if you happen…

Read More

The Best Use of Any Onion

People all over Europe have been filling up on what we now know as “French” onion soup for at least a couple thousand years. And for at least once in food history, nobody is the least bit mystified how the dish’s basic idea started making the rounds. Onions can be many things, but the Number…

Read More

The Exotic Journey of Chili

One of the ways that’s guaranteed to get virtually all Texans mad at you, regardless of their ethnicity, religion or politics, is to start telling them what chili is supposed to be. In New Orleans, you don’t make friends talking about what gumbo is supposed to be either. Yet in my life as a food…

Read More

Montreal Winter Soup

Whether it’s icy outside, or cool, or simply slightly less hot than the place that bad people are supposed to go, this is the season for making soup. And one of the most dramatic lessons I’ve learned in all these years of cooking for people is that soup is the easiest thing in the universe…

Read More

Sicily’s Signature Orange

Starting with the weather, a thousand things might make this more or less true, but now is the time to be buying, cooking with and devouring the darkest-fleshed blood oranges you can get your happy hands on. The same substance that gives the interior flesh its exotic color delivers a bundle of health benefits while…

Read More

That Vinegar from Modena

Modena, the city in the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, is world-famous for approximately three things – its legacy of Ferrari and Lamborghini sports cars, the late opera tenor Luciano Pavarotti, and balsamic vinegar. The vinegar turns up in my life much more often than the other two products put together. Of course, Modena being…

Read More

Wine Tasting for Everybody

We are lucky: we don’t live in a world in which so much is made of wine science, knowledge, sophistication and connoisseurship that nobody would ever feel worthy of drinking the wonderful stuff. We do, however, live in a world in which (as from the beginnings of wine culture in ancient Greece), the more you…

Read More

Happy Protochronia, 2020!

Not too many years ago, you might have gotten a blank stare if you asked a Greek child what he or she hoped to get from Santa for Christmas. After all, in that unique and (by me) beloved culture, gifts didn’t come from St. Nick at Christmas but from St. Basil on New Year’s. Not…

Read More