Archive for February 2020

Meatless for the Moment

I was reading a newspaper article from New York the other day, about the thing I probably like least. There’s a hot hip new restaurant serving cheese made from cashews, steak tartare made from split peas colored with beet juice, and even foie gras made from ground sesame seeds. This latest NYC hotspot is devoted…

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Meatball Soup from Mexico

Of all the variations on meatball soup in this world that don’t taste the least bit Italian – from ciorba de perisoare in Romania to bola bola in the Philippines – spiced-yet-also-cooling Mexican sopa de albondigas is our alltime favorite. Make no mistake, we’ve been known to inhale anything with meatballs, but if you happen…

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The Best Use of Any Onion

People all over Europe have been filling up on what we now know as “French” onion soup for at least a couple thousand years. And for at least once in food history, nobody is the least bit mystified how the dish’s basic idea started making the rounds. Onions can be many things, but the Number…

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The Exotic Journey of Chili

One of the ways that’s guaranteed to get virtually all Texans mad at you, regardless of their ethnicity, religion or politics, is to start telling them what chili is supposed to be. In New Orleans, you don’t make friends talking about what gumbo is supposed to be either. Yet in my life as a food…

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